Early spring weather has come with warm days melting the snow. The campervan was a packed ready to go to the West Coast for some cycling. Another westerly front was coming in, so we headed to Dunedin instead.
Christchurch to Dunedin in a day is not too bad a drive, slower in the campervan, but we were keen to see how a longer drive would go. It was great, whenever we were tired, we pulled over for a walk or a sleep in the back and we were ready to go again. We leave after 8am and arrived mid afternoon.
Apart from catching up with friends, we were keen to ride the new 38km Port to Port Cycle. We stayed at Portobello Village Tourist Park – out of the wind a few hundred metres from the harbour. A short walk (or bike) to fantastic Pub – Portobello Hotel and Bistro, the Cove Cafe and a great general store – this is lovely place to stay.
Portobello is also one of the starting points on the Port to Port Cycle ride and the connecting Ferry which crosses the 10 minute ride to Port Chalmers. Be sure to book your ferry ride – there are scheduled times at Portobello and Port Charlmers. (If there is a gang of you they can take up to 15 bikes)
- Te Aka Ōtākou (The Otago Vine): The whole trail from Port Chalmers to Portobello
- Te Ara Moana (The Ocean Path): The Maori name for the State Highway 88 to Port Chalmers trail
- Te Awa Ōtākou (The Ocean River) is the name of The Otago Peninsula trail
Portobello to Dunedin: Te Awa Ōtākou
This part of the ride takes you along the Otago Peninsula – a flat mostly separated cycleway beside the road – we found there was little traffic on it, so it was a delightful ride. Regularly there were little wider spots where there was a seat, some plantings and even steps down into the harbour. Eventually the city of Dunedin emerged, and as we entered it, I notices a bike trail off to St Kilda Beach (next time!).
Note: Glenfalloch Gardens is on the Peninsula road and is well worth a visit. A fantastic well kept historic garden – it is early Spring and it is bursting with life. It has a gorgeous cafe and Friday evening live music and happy hour which we loved.
Getting through Dunedin was not straight forward, and it was not long before we lost the official cycle trail (more wayfinding information needed, especially for visitors.) We hugged the wharf areas and headed for the stadium, one of the highest points around, and easily seen, and thankfully there we found ourselves on the official trail again.
Note too self and others: next time we will detour into the Octagon (well marked on the trail) to get a coffee and have a wander. Allow an hour for the cycle journey.
Note to those who run the trail: Could do with clearer wayfinding through the city, and towards Port Chalmers – at one point a sign said cycle way ends then a few hundred metres on it says it starts again. A sign would have helped here as we went through a car park.
Dunedin to Port Chalmers Te Ara Moana (The Ocean Path)
I had looked across the harbour and noticed this was a very busy road and hoped the cycle way was not part of that busyness. Far from it, the cycle way mostly follows the rail line, and occasionally diverts over beautiful new raised cycleways across estuary areas. It was a beautiful ride, mostly flat, bypassing small residential areas along the harbour and eventually getting to the more established Port Chalmers.
Allow an hour to get from Dunedin. You are definitely ready for coffee and a snack – we headed for Café Santosha – down an alley off the main street, but worth hunting for.
The ferry is just a short ride away, and you only need to be there 5 minutes before so they can load your boat – important to book. Rachel our captain is very knowledgable and is also a wildlife guide – you can book on a 2 hour tour ride with her as well. Between Port Chalmers and Portobello is Quarantine Island where the boat will stop to drop off or pick up passengers heading out there to explore.
Heading North…
Instead of the main highway, head out to Port Chalmers and over the hill – lovely drive and a chance to visit Orokonui Wildlife Reserve – a 307 hectare biodiversity sanctuary near Dunedin, New Zealand. It is home to many threatened species and habitats and has a long term goal to ensure its species thrive.
HOURS: Open Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Monday 9:30am – 4:30pm Horopito Cafe is open 10am – 3pm Closed Tuesday and Wednesday
Orokonui Facebook page
Next time:
- We drove over the hill to Hoopers inlet and Allans Beach where we spotted to Sea Lions lazing in the sand. If we had had more time, we would have cycled it, but we were exhausted from our Port to Port Ride.
- There are a couple of free camping spots over that hill, so next time we will definately stay over and explore. One spot is right beside the inlet which would be a great spot to watch the tide go in and out and do some birdwatching and bike the gravel roads
- I see they are going to extend the cycleway beyond Portobello
- Cycle the side trip to St Kilda and into the Octagon at Dunedin’s heart
- Visit Larnoch Castle
Another must do in Dunedin. Step back in time and visit the beautiful Olveston Historic Home situated up the hill from town. It will not disappoint.